Saturday, February 2, 2008

“Il bel far niente”

We had our first experience taking an overnight train from Cap d'Ail to Rome, Italy, and we highly recommend it. We quickly figured out that trains are the easiest, usually cheapest and most comfortable way to travel across Europe, if you have the time as they take a bit longer than planes. Our room consisted of 2 bunk beds and a sink with towels provided. After boarding, the train attendants came by with bottles of water, THEN in the morning, we received cappuccino and a croissant. You'd never get these free amenities flying!



We safely arrived the next morning and metro-ed to the apartment that we rented out for the week, which was near the Vatican. As we mentioned in the last post, we wanted to spend our time in Rome leisurely. So we found a great apartment with a full kitchen, terrace, living room, dining room, bedroom and bath. It fit us like a glove and we became Romans for 10 days.



During the week, we split our time between reading, writing, walking and site seeing. We had picked up a great book while in France called “Eat, Pray, Love” by Elizabeth Gilbert. She had spent 4 months in Rome learning Italian and embracing the culture. This book helped us to understand the Italian way of life as well as understand our own inability as Americans to rest and where that is rooted. We learned the difference between entertainment/amusement versus enjoyment. Beyond that we learned much more about beauty and that it doesn't necessarily take riches to have and enjoy beauty. The Italians successfully achieve both enjoyment and beauty, and they have a phrase for this “Il bel far niente” (the beauty of doing nothing) and “L’arte d’arrangiarsi” (the art of making something out of nothing).





The best times were sitting at a cafe in a piazza drinking cappuccinos and watching the Italians at their best. One of our favorite moments was witnessing two teenagers living up to the stereotype of Roman PDA (public display of affection) as they made out for at least 20 minutes in the middle of a busy piazza. When you're 14 and in Rome it doesn't take much to look like a Casanova!



Food was a main focus during our week. We had a small supermarket near out apartment where we picked up fresh ingredients everyday to make dinner. We enjoyed using the authentic italian ingredients such as mozzarella balls, fresh tomatoes, mushrooms and amazing pastas. Of course we made sure to enjoy some gelato everyday too!





We were able to meet up with a friend of Max and Kate Finberg, Michelle Faccinelli. Michelle, originally from Maryland, moved to Rome seven years ago and is in love with Rome. She helped us to experience the “untouristy” side of Rome. We went with her to a prayer service at her church, which the church dates back to 400 A.D. and was a place where St. Francis visited when he came to Rome. The community there was very vibrant and kept a spirit of St. Francis alive in their concern for the poor, peace, and reconciliation.

Fortunately our trip coincided with Ron's 30th birthday! We celebrated by dining at an outdoor cafe overlooking the Pantheon. Ron felt very loved in the whole experience and was very thankful for all the birthday wishes.





We toured some of the sites but we felt free to leave more to explore on our next trip. We were glad to slow down and really slide into the Italian pace and culture.



Love,
Kathryn and Ron


P.S. Lessons Learned in Rome - The Tourist vs. The Sojourner

By: Ron Ivey

In the last two months of traveling the Old World, there has been this battle between two personalities within me. One is the Tourist. He is fully a citizen of his own country, in this case an American. In his mind swirl the list of places to see, things to buy and pictures to take of himself to ensure that he has done the good job of a tourist. If he can return with the right stories, the best pictures and the confidence that he saw the Louvre in Paris, the Tower in London, and the Colleseum in Rome, he is good, he is righteous and he is ultimately earned his trip and the laudes of his friends and family. He walks the streets of the Old World, comparing every detail to home and thinking of clever ways to report his travels. His guide is the tour book, with all the “best places” to see, each with their ranking and American perspecitive. If the trip nears it's end and the key sites are not checked off the list, this sense of responsibilty grips him. He begins to calculate the hours and the minutes left to see if he can make one last visit or buy one more chotchky. His is an experience of fear of missing the important sites mixed with the anticlimatic feeling of underwhelment once he has seen the sites. For the sites are never quite what the guidebooks say and the culture never quite lives up to his expectations.

The other man, is the Sojourner, the pilgrim. He approaches the trip with a sense of wonder and expectancy. As Bob Dylan would say, he is a citizen “of altered conciousness of reality...some liberated republic” looking for his country. He has no list of sites, but rather desires deep in heart to hear, see, touch, taste and smell what is different and new. He is fully comfortable not knowing every detail of the trip. He knows that the best adventures aren't planned. His favorite elements of the trips are the suprise friendships and conversations with locals and fellow travelers. The sites, if they have history or are places of spiritual significance, are less important as pictures and more important as part of his story. He connects with the saints of Ireland, feels their passion for God's creation and the simplicity of life enjoyed in love. Every artifcact, ruin and landscape has a story with colorful characters. He imagines the battles and the speeches as if he were a participant. Most importantly, he recogines the importance of learning more about his traveling partner and her journey of faith and discovery. Her experience of grace and creativity becomes part of his story and vice versa. They learn to believe as children believe. They remember the fairytales together.

Sunshine and Raindrops on the Blue Coast

We arrived in Nice, France and headed to pick up our rental car to head to our final destination Cap d'Ail, a small town 2 miles outside of Monaco.

Cap d'Ail was not initially a planned stop in our journey. When we had mentioned our trip to our friends, the Bauers, it worked out that Brian had a timeshare with his company in Cap d'Ail that wasn't being used, so he graciously offered it to us. This was a huge blessing for our dwindling budget.





During the week, we probably experienced some of the most extreme highs and lows of the trip. A few of the days we were blessed with full sunshine and temperatures in the low 60s. We had a lot of fun driving along the three corniches, high mountain roads, that carried you on the cliff's edge towering above the Mediterranean (you felt like a race car driver zooming around a track). At the end of one of these corniches was a small town called Menton that was situated next to the Italian border. It was our favorite spot where we sat for hours at oceanfront cafes enjoying our cafe creme and reading, writing, and people watching. Per the recommendation of the Dufoixs, Ron tried a seafood specialty called Coquille- St. Jacques, served in a seashell. It was one of Ron's favorite dishes on the trip.



We did have a few low days as rain came in for 3 consecutive days and Ron came down with a bad stomach virus. We consented that it was the raw sea snails he ate on accident due to our poor French! Whatever you do, do not order BOULETS when you are in France!!!! One night we were really struggling with sickness and travel weariness, and we were close to packing up and heading home early. However, we decided to call our life line, Tim Shirk, to help us. We took his advice to slow down, make a longer stay of our next trip, and to really do all the things we wouldn't have time to do once we are back home, i.e. read, write, sit, pray, eat slow meals, and do nothing – we learned more about this 'doing nothing' while we were in Italy. We'll explain later!

Looking back, the week was perfect, just what we needed. If you're gonna be run down and sick, you might as well experience it in a beautiful place!

Our Italian update will be coming soon!

Much love,
Kathryn and Ron

Reunited Friends and New Friends in Marseille

We were sad to say goodbye to the Dufoixs, but our next stop was to meet up with our friend, Whitley Worthington. Whitley has been serving a short term mission position down in Marseille, a large port city off the coast of Southern France. This was a fortunate opportunity as Whitley and Kathryn are close friends from college and our trip overlapped with her time in France.



Whitley had arranged for us to stay with Keith and Patti Moore, a couple originally from Annapolis, MD , who have been in Marseille the past 3 years doing mission work. A dynamic duo, we quickly discovered their amazing gift of hospitality. Also, they were both very encouraging in our travels and had provided great insight for our lives back in DC. Again, we were overwhelmed with the gift of these new friends. We instantly clicked and we hope to visit them soon when they return to the states in March.

As soon as we arrived, we jetted off to lunch at a French hotel/restaurant management school. Our meals were cooked by student chefs and served by student waiters. It was quite the experience! The food was delicious, and we were entertained as we watched the students nervously serve us as their “quintessential plump and proper” instructor looked over their shoulder verbally correcting and grading them. At the end of our meal they served a classic French pastry, "Galette des Rois," to celebrate the Epiphany.





After lunch, Whitley took us through a short tour of Marseille as we climbed to the highest point of the city, the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. As the city is a working-class port town, it still has a charm to it with its beauty all around and in the city: the red slated roofs, the aqua-blue Mediterranean, the rocky Calanques, and the cobble-stoned, meandering streets. From our view from the top of the basilica, we could see the infamous Chateau D'If, which was the prison where the Count of Monte Cristo was held in the novel. Whitley also introduced us to an excellent new beer, Desperado!





On our last day in Marseille, Patti and Whitley took us to a small village nearby called Cassis. It was a gorgeous day with no clouds in sight, and the Mediterranean was shimmering like an aqua-marine gem. This was definitely a treat! We enjoyed a great meal of cafe-au-lait and crepes filled with cheese and various meats. Ron enjoyed taking pictures while Kathryn, Whitley and Patti shopped in the local stores selling provencal goodies.





It was difficult to leave Marseille as we had to tell Whitley and our new friends, the Moores, goodbye. The community and fellowship we experienced over those few days in Marseilles were much needed and we left feeling alive! We boarded our train to head to the Cote D'Azur......